3D Printing a Chess Set and Laser Burning a Chess Board - creating3dgames.com

3D Printing a Chess Set and Laser Burning a Chess Board

3D Printing Nerd
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3D Printing a Chess Set on the Makergear M3, and making a Chess Board using the Full Spectrum MUSE laser! We used Polyalchemy filaments on the dual extruder printer, and the chess pieces look great!

Organic Chess Set by NTX9

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Makergear M3:

Polyalchemy filaments:

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129 Comments

  1. I actually use a glass chess board as my printing surface. I've thought about printing out a chess set on it just to get the picture of all of the pieces aligned to the squares.

  2. Hi joel! i met you at maker faire but i was super nervous to talk to you because lowkey i was freaking out that i actually met you. That being said, thanks for being super cool!

  3. Looks amazing Joel, love it, novel approach.

  4. Nice chess set. How much would you sell it for?

  5. Those Polyalchemy filaments are notoriously hard to get fine details looking good, it's a very 'gooey' pla. To get any level of detail with those is s good result. You would get much better results with a more conventional pla 👍🏻

  6. That shiny blue filament is awesome! I haven't printed anything in a long time, now I need to find an excuse to get some of that filament…

  7. Chutes and Ladders is NOT fun
    Spin
    See where you go
    Repeat

    No skill, no strategy, no decisions to be made, no real gameplay… Pretty much only designed for very little kids who can't handle more than that.

  8. You can buy "transfer tape" from any place that sells vinyl cutter supplies. Just make sure to get a paper based type, and check the MSDS for that brand to make sure it's safe to burn. You can get it in HUGE sizes. Then you can tape up the wood with one piece. Keep up the great work. Hi-5 buddy!

  9. Too small for this channel 😛
    I was waiting for a human-sized rock or something.

  10. I've seen some great miniatures printed from Makergear 3D printers hopefully you can yours tuned in more. Neat to see the laser back in action. Had you heard of the Lewis chessmen set? It's a neat looking set from the 12th century.

  11. Love the shirt! Ironically, that's what I was doing while watching your video.

  12. i encourage taking a cigarette lighter to those freshly printed chess pieces, just for a tenth of a second. it will melt away any and all minute plastic strands left hanging off your freshly 3d printed pieces.

  13. Flood coat of self leveling resin to give it a sort of 3-dimensional appeal and make the colors really POP!

  14. As a 3-D enthusiast AND chess lover I can say this set is I-N-S-A-N-E especially the rooks!

  15. I gotta get to printing that shogi (Japanese chess) set…

  16. If you just wanted the laser to cut away the tape mask, you'd be a lot better off vector engraving the lines. I skipped around in this video a bit so I don't know if you discussed this, but vector engraving the lines and peeling up the tape would probably take less than a minute. Raster engraving across that whole board, even at like a .005" stepover would probably take upwards of something like 15-25 minutes depending on scan speed plus then you still had to take the chisel to it to clean up the little bits that weren't ablated away.

  17. If you were to send Josef Prusa somewhere by post – say, to Abu Dhabi, like Garfield with Nermal – would you tell people "the Czech's in the mail?"

  18. Joel,

    Thank you so, so much for printing my chess set.

    The crosses in the kings helmet are intended as s built in support that can be removed after printing. I do like the idea that it could be an added detail to the design.

  19. My dad was the one that originally designed these models, and I gotta say it's absolutely surreal seeing you cover them!

  20. I love ya, Joel… but ….. Man it pains me to do this …. You're killing me with "bolth"

  21. this persons son. my mom said that she's your friend.

  22. you should 3D print rayquaza the pokemon

  23. Question are you still using fusion 360 for your modeling? If so do you have a video upload a design into the raised 3D
    Please and thank you

  24. can you do a review and installation tutorial of the diamond hotend?

  25. If there's a 'gunmetal' filament, I think that would look really good with the silver

  26. this was a great video, I oved hat it was something small that you could make in a little amount of time. For one of you next builds I would love to see you make a BIG safe or something like it. Here is a good thingiverse link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2985237 note: It is samll, so you might need at least 250% scale

  27. If you'd coat the board in epoxy resin and make it shine it would up the look a million times! 😉

  28. If you wanted to remove the squares that you etched out, it would have been better off to just cut a grid and peel the alternating squares.

    I've been using a laser cutter for quite a while, it's just easier in the long run to peel the pieces you don't want than to clean up an etch.

    Just my 2 cents.

  29. How did u do the “spongebob 3D” thing in simplify?

  30. HEY LOOK AN UNSPONSORED VIDEO!

    patreon ad follows

  31. The silver and blue ……. wow! Awesome 👏 projects

  32. I'd vector cut the squares it would be much quicker.

  33. Is it just me or does he sound and possibly look like Markiplier or is it just me?

  34. Pity about that tasteless t-shirt. Not funny at all.

  35. Did you consider painting the board silver before taping? Then you could get silver and blue squares that would match both colors if the pieces. (I'm sure this was mentioned before in the comments but i got tired of clicking through the See More Comments and just thought I would ask.

  36. This is cool, but imagine if you used wood filament for the pieces, stained one of the sets darker, and used the laser cutter to get a darker raster for the grid.

  37. I have the following issue while using the laser in my Ender 3-Pro from Creality:

    The height can be customized, and the printer responds to Z offset changes. (software, screen, or Gcode)

    The machine, I heard it switch on/off, although it does not engrave at all from laser speed 15 to 3,000 mm/min that I tried.

    I just see a mild sign of work when I put my eye close, but nothing noticeable.

    The laser won't light up by itself. I have to go to the screen of the printer and adjust the Fan Speed 100% for every print.

    Even though, the gcode file has M106 S255 in several sections….. and M107 at the end.

    CAN YOU HELP ME TO MAKE THE LASER WORK….? it had not been an easy process, I am almost frustrated.

    Thanks.

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